Deviled lamb’s kidneys have been passed round in the frying pan with toothpicks and hunks of bread, and a loin of lamb full of pine nuts and apricots was already in the oven. While the barn was reworked into a country dining room, with a protracted trestle table in the center and benches alongside the sides, we had been all herded out into the bracing February air. Place on a roasting pan and generously add oil and salt. Spread a couple of sprigs of rosemary and thyme over the celeriac and roast at 180 levels for 20 minutes, until tender. You know I love lamb, as evidenced by the assorted chops, shanks, legs, and shoulders I’ve featured in the past.